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Another fun fun day at Sands. This time the first rain of the year came with some great surf. Overhead and glassy. It's probably not the best idea to go in the water right after a storm. Actually, pretty stupid. My nurse friend was telling me how dangerous it was and how I can pick up all sorts of things...even heart complications. crazy. However, it made for a light crowd and warm water. I walked the long walk to the break and when I got there, Jim asked me, "where's your leash?" That sucked! I ran all the way back and got it from my car and made the trip back again. I'm so glad I got in though. I'd be chasing my board all afternoon if I didn't. For some reason I was able to get a lot of waves even though I'm totally out of shape. My new board held up beautifully, even on the steeper waves and I think I'm convinced that I'll keep it. I had a fat knot in my stomach the whole time I was out there, but I had a huge smile on my face for the rest of the day! | | |
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wow...I hit sands again today and it was even better. The whole point just sticks out, so it's completely exposed to all the NW swell that comes through. We've had like 4 straight days of swell and this is the third time I got to go. I'm in the middle of the hardest quarter of my life, but with swell in the water, I just have to go. I've got about 3 weeks to finish up my 100 page paper, and it's getting tough. It'll be ok. I'm scared, and I don't want to do the work, but I'll pass...things will be ok...and I'll survive. God's with me. So back to the surf. It's not a point break, it's like on the other side of the point so it's more like a beach break. The sand bar underneath shifts makes it so that it breaks in like 5 different spots. The waves jack up into these super steep ramps, and then die down a little. They get super hollow too like El Porto. So...overhead (7-8'), peaky waves, and decent shape. I fell over the falls like 4 times today on super steep ones that I had no business going for. It was fun. The water's been COLD too. Icecream headaches everytime I went through a duck dive. Went with my buddy Jim today. He picked me up after work. It was his first time going there. Maybe I can hit it again on Friday.
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Went to Sands today. I finally took the time to bike to the beach. It was kinda awkward lugging the board around, but I made it in 15 minutes and it was totally worth. Sands, which doesn't really have a parking lot is totally accessible by bike (or long walk) and it was good. I definitely think it works better here at a higher tide. When the tide is dropping it gets too dang hollow. A little too sketchy and deep for my taste. I got smashed today trying to get myself in a really deep tube. I'm gonna try to hit this spot all week. We've got NW swell and it should be good. Side note: My qualifying exam is due 6/5. I'm about 1/3 there, but there's still a lot to do. Hard to stay motivated. Surfing should help though. It will ensure that my body is strong, making it so that my mind is strong. ABD here I come.
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| So it's been a month since I've been in the water and it was horrible. I finally got a chance to go out last week and I've been out a couple times since. I'm so dang rusty. It's amazing what a month of NOT surfing will do to your confidence out there. I'm not lining up at the top of the point, and instead I'm just chilling on the side waiting for one to roll my way. It's ok though. My paddle strength is coming back and I feel more comfortable now. I went out to rincon last friday, a place called hammonds reef on Saturday, and I hit up campus point today (monday). All 3 days saw shoulder to head high surf. We've had a good amount of swell in the water these days. We're actually expecting another swell to hit the day after tomorrow too! Can't wait. I've been kinda stressed out with a bunch of stuff these days. So much that it's even hard to forget my worries out in the water. Even with everything stacked up against me, it's still nice to get out and worry about something else for a change. When you're in the water, everything else seems to fade a little in the distance. The only thing on your mind is making the next wave and trying to gain speed. Going over the falls or getting a wall of water dumped on your head are more pressing concerns at the time. Anyway...I'm sure my worries and concerns will pan out somehow on their own. I'm learning that stressing about them and being an emotional mess about it doesn't accomplish a damn thing. Letting go and losing control are hard things for me. I wonder whey I haven't learned that lesson by now. I'm required to roll with the punches whenever I'm out in the water. hmmmm....
Here's a few pics I found on the internet of Hammonds Reef:
 
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| So the biggest swell of 2007 has hit the california coast line and I'm stuck writing papers for finals. Sucks. However, something special did happen today, and I feel that it's appropriate to share on this surf blog. I did not surf today, but I just had to go take a look at least for a little bit because of the size. Goleta beach which normally has only ankle slappers was walling up overhead! I grabbed some coffee with E and we headed toward campus point. As we pulled up to the packed parking lot, we struck up conversation with a few kids and they told us that kelly slater was at the end of the parking lot. holy crap. I pulled up to the end of the lot and saw him struggling to get booties on behind a black suburban. I was completely star-struck. Luckily we had E's old school 35mm camera with some black and white film in it and I told her to jump out and take a picture with him. He was a little annoyed about taking photos. He said, "I'm just trying to get in the water," but agreed to one quick shot. I got it. He was all smiles in the picture, too. He knows how to work the public. I could tell he had never been to campus point before, because he totally went the wrong way to the beach. As soon as he figured out the right path he made a sprint for the water. I quickly made chase, but like an idiot rolled my ankle! I was wearing my brother's shoes unlaced which are a size too big. So I limped toward the water to follow him. E and I got to the top of the point and stood on the bluff watching him try to paddle out. News traveled fast through the crowd of 20+ standing at the point and everyone had their eyes on kelly. 15-20ft set waves were lining up and kelly went right to the top of the pack. For his first wave, he took off super late, and I totally thought he got swallowed up. In classic kelly style, he came out of it unscathed and made the next section. He's so damn good.
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